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Puppy Training Tips

  • Pupy Training: Tips To Overcome Chewing And Barking

    Puppies are one of the sweetest creatures on earth. They are adorable without even trying and irresistible enough to make anyone fall in love with them. Delightful as puppies are, they can fall into unsuitable habits like chewing and unwarranted barking. These behaviors cannot be tolerated in the home, especially when visitors often come by. As worrying as such behaviors may sound, they are fairly easy to control. In fact, the puppy stage is the perfect time to begin training for good habits.

    Puppy Training: Tips to Overcome Chewing and Barking | Everything Shed Dog

    Chewing: Causes

    One of the most common pet owner’s peeves is their puppy’s tendency for chewing. Come to think of it, who has never seen a puppy who didn’t like to chew? Chewing is simply part and parcel of a puppy’s growth and development. The chewing usually starts when puppies begin teething and are now able to start on solids. Having something to gnaw on at this stage eases the teething process and relieves any soreness in the gums they may be going through. Puppies also get into chewing because they use their mouths as a means of exploring the world around them, much like human babies do.

    Chewing can also be due to a lack of stimulating activities. Anyone who’s ever raised a puppy will know that chewing can be thoroughly engaging for them. If not, a puppy may be feeling anxious, and having something to chew on calms it.

    All this chewing can lead to puppies gnawing on things they ought not to.If left to their devices,puppies can chew through their humans’ things or worse, get their intestines blocked or their teeth damaged. Thus, owners should know how to properly redirect this ruinous behavior.

    Chewing: Solutions

    An effective rule of thumb to go by to control chewing is to teach a dog what can and can’t be chewed. This rule requires two things: puppy-proofing the house and approved chew toys.First, an owner should impose a tighter rein over general housekeeping during a puppy’s training period. Anything that should not go into a dog’s mouth should not be left lying around or exposed. Toxic plants, human food, household cleaners, and electrical cords should all be relocated, kept out of reach, or made chew-proof.If the house can’t be made completely puppy-proof, the pup should be kept within acceptable areas or in a secure enclosure if left unsupervised.

    Chew toys are essential to curbing a puppy’s desire to chew.When the puppy starts to chew on something, it should be reprimanded immediately and given the toys as replacement or diversion.An important note owner should keep in mind, toys should be easily recognizable from other items in the house. Old items like old shoes, socks, or clothing are inappropriate as chew toys since these resemble items in the house. If a dog has begun chewing on inappropriate items, taste deterrents like bitter apple can be applied.

    In addition, chew toys should be ensured safe and not pose choking hazards for the puppy. While rawhide and big beef bones are often recommended, a determined chewer will gnaw through these materials, creating occasions for choking.Toys should be large enough not to be swallowed or get stuck in the puppy’s mouth.

    Since chewing is a potentially destructive behavior, a puppy should learn to associate chewing with positive experiences. The puppy should receive praise, physical fuss, and even a treat when it shows interest in the appropriate chew toys. An owner should also let the puppy have fun with the preferred play things to further affirm the positive association. After a set time, the owner should collect the toys to train the puppy that chewing is still just a special treat.

    Barking: Causes

    Another puppy behavior that owners complain about is excessive barking. Barking is a natural behavior and means of communication among canines. Dogs tend to bark for various reasons, including excitement, distress, frustration, aggression, or just for attention. Among puppies, the common causes for barking may usually be due to distress, frustration, or for attention. Puppies tend to feel insecure if left alone and resort to barking to demand attention or express their distress. Sometimes though, they bark when they are bored.

    The owner needs to recognize the reasons for barking and teach the puppy to learn when barking is acceptable and when it isn’t. For this purpose, an owner should get to know his/her puppy and the situations that trigger it to bark.

    Barking: Solutions

    Barking is one of a canine’s ways of communicating to its owners. Thus, the goal is not to completely prevent barking, but to allow it as needed. A few methods can be used to control barking, depending on the reason for the barking. The first thing an owner should do is to understand why the puppy is barking in order to apply the appropriate measure.

    When a puppy barks to get attention, the owner should ignore it completely, no matter how long it takes, until the puppy stops. The owner should not give in even when the puppy is persistent to avoid instilling the wrong kind of behavior. The puppy should know that if it wants food, attention, or play, barking is not the way to get it.If the puppy barks during play, the owner should stop the activity abruptly, resuming only when the barking stops.

    If a puppy barks because of boredom, it probably lacks activities to do or toys to play with. Like the saying goes, a tired dog is a good dog. When a puppy is sufficiently exercised or amused, it will more likely display good behavior.

    Like people, puppies can also experience separation anxiety and resort to whining and barking. What an owner can do is train a puppy to calm down by leaving it for a while and then return before it begins barking. Gradually, the length of time can be increased, but the owner should always return before the puppy becomes anxious. Eventually, the puppy will learn to relax without its human companion.

    Final Thoughts

    Whenever a puppy exhibits potentially problematic behaviors, the best course of action is to learn to correct it in the most effective way as soon as possible. What usually happens is, the longer it takes to correct a behavior, the tougher it will be to correct. This especially goes if the puppy is of a large breed, what with all the physical effort that will now go into the needed corrections. However, if a now older dog is involved, all is still not lost. The truth is you can teach an old dog new tricks. But that is another story for another time.

    In any pet issue, a behavior professional or a well-informed vet should always be consulted. They should be able to provide sound advice on most anything a puppy is going through and guide pet parents towards the best approach to raising a well-behaved pup.

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    Author: Jordan Walker

    Jordan is the lead content curator for Coops And Cages as well as a couple of other pet-related blogs. His passion for animals is only matched by his love for 'attempting' to play the guitar. If you would like to catch him, you can via Google+ or Twitter: @CoopsAndCages.

  • Why Won't My Hunting Dog Stop Jumping On Me?

    What do you do when every time you come home you’re greeted by paws flying at your face?  Or whenever you get a visitor at your house they get absolutely mauled by that 80lb retriever that’s so excited to see them?   It is a frustrating, embarrassing problem that many dog owners have to go through.  What do you do?

    dog jumping on person

    It comes straight down to basic obedience, and lots of consistent repetition.  If your dog is sitting, how is he going to be jumping up?  All this means is that the first step to fixing the problem is making sure that your “SIT” command is taught and reinforced well.

    Start by making sure that your dog knows what “SIT” means.  This is common knowledge for most dogs.  But if not, all you have to do to show them what it means is break out the treats!  Make sure that you have highly desirable treats- maybe even pieces of hot dog or chicken.  Put the treat right in front of their nose, and lift the treat up slowly while giving the “SIT” command.  Treat and praise when the dog sits.  It’s natural tendency for a dog’s rear end to go down as their nose goes up, but if they need a little guiding- push down right above the tail while luring with the treat.  Repeat this process until your dog understands what the command means and starts doing it on his own.

    Once your jumper has mastered the “SIT” command for treats, it’s time to reinforce it.  There are many ways to reinforce a behavior; whether it is a choke chain, e-collar, or a firm vocal correction.  You are teaching your dog that if they sit they get rewarded (treat or praise), but if they choose not to obey your command they get some sort of correction.  Practice, Practice, Practice!  Your dog has mastered “SIT”, now what?

    Now you apply it to your jumping problem.  Every time your dog jumps up, give him a stern “NO, SIT!” command.  When he sits and calms down, then you praise and give him attention.  You never want to give a jumping dog any attention or praise while jumping.  If just a vocal command (“NO, SIT!”) is not proving to be sufficient, add a knee in the chest, or turn your back to him while giving your command.

    He finally stopped jumping on you, now you need to make sure that he’s consistent with everyone.  The way you make sure of that is by making sure everyone is consistent with him!  Everyone that your dog meets needs to abide by the same training standard as you.  You can even go as far as setting your dog up by having informed friends and family randomly stop over to reinforce your dog’s new behavior.  If you practice and put some work into it, you will be on the road to a dog that any visitor will be happy to see because their greeting manners are so good!

    By Bre Krueger Professional Dog Trainer

  • Hunting Dog Or House Dog- The Pendulum Has Swung!

    There used to be a misconception that you either had a hunting dog or a family dog, and in some circles that is still the predominate way of thinking but we 100% disagree and I believe most of the folks with hunting dogs do as well.  The thinking went something like this, if my dog is spoiled and not concentrating on hunting and birds then it won’t stay focused on the training or focused on the birds, and a good hunting dog has to always be focused and have a one track mind to be good and successful at its craft.  This is where we believe the thinking is off track. I think it can prove that a dog that is loved and cared for is going to be more successful in the field than a dog that is made to be “focused”, which was often a term for slightly harsher training techniques.

    We have seen many dog trainers perform their craft over the years and the best I have seen are the ones that don’t even raise their voices.  Dog training is as much about trust and mutual respect as it is about training of technics.  A dog that knows technics can perform the task of hunting, a dog that respects his handler (owner) can and will want to hunting for them.  The difference in the level of competency is in the desire level.  The desire to please and be rewarded is where the great dogs are created.

    That being said we believe a dogs trust and respect often times is created out of the love and care it is shown in the home.  That is many times in the house that this is established by many people and often not even the primary handler, it could be the wife/husband or kids of the trainer or handler.  Especially during the puppy stage with the hunting dog is developing their world reality and the pecking order and respect of their home.  This is an important time in the development of desire and training of the fundamental of becoming a great hunting dog with that DESIRE to please and be rewarded.  The entire family can play a part in the training and in fact should be educated on the do’s and don’ts puppy training to make sure everyone in the house is on the same page.

    To sum it up we fully believe that your hunting dog can be in and around the home during the primary training period and even after, and this will have a positive effect on their hunting skills, and possibility even created more desire to please, hence producing a better hunting dog.   Let it be known though, that this house and family socialization process is never ever a replacement to solid foundational hunting dog training, that is as important as ever.  Happy hunting and training with your dog!

    EverythingGunDog Team!

  • Tips For Your New Gun Dog Puppy!

    Lab hunting puppies

    Congratulations on your new puppy!

    Today starts the rest of your puppy’s new life; I just wanted to give you some helpful hints to taking care of a new puppy.

    • 1.Make sure that you choose a vet that you trust, look for a vet that doesn’t try to sell you something every time you walk in, also look for a vet that remembers your puppy when you walk in.  This will help in the dogs health and wellness.
    • 2.Lots of chew toys, if you want to stop your puppy from chewing on your furniture?  Go out and spend 50-60 dollars on chew toys that you can scatter throughout the house, this should control the chewing on furniture aspect.
    • 3.Remember that puppies need a lot of attention, and that your puppies has the attention span of a 2 yrs. old and is going to get bored if it doesn’t have something to occupy its time.
    • 4.You should crate train your puppy, this will become a safe place for your puppy and nothing bad should ever happen to the puppy when it is in the crate. Crate training your dog will be a life saver in the future, it can be place your dog can go with it is in trouble or a place it goes when you have guest around.
    • 5.If you have any questions feel free to contact us we are always available to answer questions.

    Behind the Blinds Labradors

    319 Brookwood Dr

    Hortonville WI 54944

    Cell (920)809-6770

    www.behindtheblindslabs.com

  • Behind the Blinds Labradors Puppy notes:

    Lab hunting puppies

    FOOD; Always feed your puppy food for at least the first 7-8 month (it has all the vitamins and nutrients that you puppy needs for healthy and rapid growth.

    Feed you puppy 3 times a day for the first 4 months old, 6-12 months feed 2 times a day, After 1 year of age feeding 1 time a day is sufficient, however dividing you dogs portions up for 2 feedings is ok also. Remember to keep good records of how much you feed your dog, in case your vet ever asks you.

    Start with ¾ -1 cup of food with about ½ as much water, gradually increase the food as the puppy grows while gradually getting rid of the water in the food.  Let your puppies appearance be your guide neither to thin nor to fat) Good things to add to food include: canned meat, cottage cheese, cooked egg, or oil or some type of fat in the diet is good for a supple coat and skin.

    A vitamin supplement is very beneficial during the first year of development.

    SHOTS:  Your puppy has received the first series of shots on __________________, these shot protect against D.H.L.P and parvo, also your puppy has received a deworming shot on ___________________, for your info and your vets info the names of the shots were___________________________________________________________________.

    The 2nd set of shots is required at 3-4 weeks from the date above..

    The 3rd set of shots to follow another 3-4 weeks after the 2nd series.  After the 3rd series only an annual revaccination is necessary.

    When taking your puppy to the vet for the 1st time, collect a stool sample so that your vet can check for worms.

    RABIES:  Shots are due around 6 months of age.

    PARASITES: it is good practice to occasionally have your puppies stool checked to keep your puppy free from parasites!!

    NOTES:  Your puppy will miss his/her littermates. So except some crying.  This will pass!  It helps to have a blanket or something to cuddle up in.  Also the pup will think it can chew on anything and everything, so make sure that is has plenty of its own toys to chew on.  Always correct a negative with a positive.  Example; if the pup has something that it is not supposed to tell it “NO” then replaces it with a toy that it is allowed to chew on. Your pup will happily switch with a little praise from you.

    A word about house breaking your new puppy: It seems puppy’s needs to go out every waking hour. This is because of their small holding tank.  Accidents will happen, again correct a negative with a positive. A firm “NO” and a trip to the outdoors, again use a lot of praise when they do their business outside.  Get your puppy outside immediately after a nap, after eating or drinking, this will help you avoid some accidents.

    We highly recommend the use of a crate with your new puppy.  It will help in potty training as the puppy will try to hold it when he/she is in the crate, it also a safe place where the puppy can sleep and be when unsupervised.  The crate is also a useful way to transport your new puppy in a vehicle.

    If for some reason you cannot keep your puppy, please notify us, we would like to know where our puppies end up.  Plus we might be able to help you place it in a good home!!

    We like to hear how the pups are doing from time to time.  So please drop us a line every once and a while.  If you ever have any questions, let us know, we will probably be able to help you out.  And most important:   ENJOY YOUR NEW FRIEND!!!!!!

    TOY SUGGESTIONS: Rawhide chews, rawhide bones, tennis balls and hard rubber balls.  (Avoid stuffed animals.)

    NAILS:  Keep them trimmed. Long nails look unsightly and they can be painful to your dog.

    BREEDING: In case you may be thinking about using your dog for breeding at some time in the future.  Consider some things: your dog should be 2 years old or older, since this is the time that evidence of hip dysplasia can be verified by the O.F.A.  AN x-ray of your dog’s hips should be taken by your vet then sent to the O.F.A to be evaluated.

    Other hereditary factors to consider are the eyes, temperament, EIC, elbows, and etc. The dog should have a brucellosis test to be sure it will not pass nor contract a disease through breeding.

    Raising a litter of puppies properly takes considerable knowledge, time, work, proper equipment.  Unless you have something beneficial to offer, placing your puppies in a suitable home can be a problem.  Also are you prepared to replace a dog if some hereditary or defiant problem arises from your breeding?  Even the most experienced breeders encounter problems along the way.  Dedication to bettering the breed is a MUST!!

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