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Monthly Archives: March 2013

  • Product Review: Dokken Mallard Dummies D100

    Mallard Hunting Dog Training DummyThe Dokken mallard is in my opinion one of the most versatile dummies that Dokken makes.  With its life like colors it forces your dog to mark the bird instead looking for the white dummy when it gets into the water or the field. Also as far as size of the dummy, it can be used for puppies up to adults, the size is also beneficial to get your puppy or dog used to the weight of a real bird. It also teaches your dog how to properly how to pick a bird every time they pick up the dummy.  Which is nice when you can’t afford a bunch of different size/style dummies?

    If I could only have one dummy to training my dogs, there is not doubt it would be the Dokken Mallard.  It is the best all around training tool, when it comes to dummies! Rating: 5 out 5 Stars!!

  • Tips For Your New Gun Dog Puppy!

    Lab hunting puppies

    Congratulations on your new puppy!

    Today starts the rest of your puppy’s new life; I just wanted to give you some helpful hints to taking care of a new puppy.

    • 1.Make sure that you choose a vet that you trust, look for a vet that doesn’t try to sell you something every time you walk in, also look for a vet that remembers your puppy when you walk in.  This will help in the dogs health and wellness.
    • 2.Lots of chew toys, if you want to stop your puppy from chewing on your furniture?  Go out and spend 50-60 dollars on chew toys that you can scatter throughout the house, this should control the chewing on furniture aspect.
    • 3.Remember that puppies need a lot of attention, and that your puppies has the attention span of a 2 yrs. old and is going to get bored if it doesn’t have something to occupy its time.
    • 4.You should crate train your puppy, this will become a safe place for your puppy and nothing bad should ever happen to the puppy when it is in the crate. Crate training your dog will be a life saver in the future, it can be place your dog can go with it is in trouble or a place it goes when you have guest around.
    • 5.If you have any questions feel free to contact us we are always available to answer questions.

    Behind the Blinds Labradors

    319 Brookwood Dr

    Hortonville WI 54944

    Cell (920)809-6770

  • Conditioning Your Dog with Shed Antler Hunting: Kennel Korner

    Shed antler dog training

    Hey guys just because the hunting season is over doesn’t mean you should stop working your dog and keeping them in shape for the next season.  I get the same question every year right before the opener: “I know its September but can you get my dog back into working shape by the duck opener?” My response is always the same “doubtful”. A good example of this is: you are not going to run the Boston Marathon on only a couple weeks of training, it takes year round training, but that is exactly what you are asking your dog to do if you only work them a couple months of the year.

    I know people are busy and summers are usually the worst with vacations, and everything else that a family has to do, but remember your dog is a part of the family. It only takes 30-45 minutes a day to keep your dog in shape, whether it be formal training, going for a walk/run, or just throwing fun bumpers in the back yard.

    A fun way to keep your dog in shape and to help hone their retrieving skills is shed hunting. If you have a seasoned gun dog your half way there. It’s easy to start training your dog for shed hunting, all you need to do to get started is go the or’s shed training page and pick up a foam antler and some scent.  I recommend the Dog Bone 3 step system it is easy to use and will help insure that you don’t make your dog “shed shy”. Once you have the system follow the instructions that come with the system.

    It is as easy as that!!  The best thing about shed training is while you are training your dog for Shed hunting you are keeping your dog in shape for the upcoming bird season! It’s something new and exciting for both you and your dog so it’s easy to keep the excitement level high and makes the training process fun. Oh yeah finding sheds is always cool too!!

    Rick Schmitz - Behind the Blinds Kennel and Dog Trainer

  • Taking Care Of Your Hunting Dog in the Hot Weather: Kennel Korner

    summer heat and dogs

    Hey guys and girls, the tip this week, is heat, a major factor during training sessions. Heat exhaustion is often caused by over-exercising or running with a dog during hot weather. So during the hottest parts of the year try and keep your training sessions short, it is better to have 2-3 short sessions then 1 long training session. Both heatstroke and heat exhaustion can result in brain damage, heart failure or even death in a short period of time(less than 1 hour). Short muzzled and thick-coated breeds and mixes are particularly vulnerable, although any breed may be at risk.

    Always bring cool water along when walking, running or training with your dog during hot weather. To cool off an overheated dog, offer him plenty of water, then wet the dog's body and paws with cool water, try not to use Ice cold water you don’t want to send your dog’s body into shock and cooling too fast can cause that, use cool water for best results. A dog's normal internal body temperature is between 100.5 degrees F and 102 degrees F. If the dog experiences heatstroke or heat exhaustion, they should receive veterinary attention as soon as possible. And remember just because you’re running your dog in the water doesn’t mean they can’t get heat related injuries. If it has been hot out for a while the water temp can range in the high 80’s low 90’s which in not cooling you dog down like you think. So again keep your training sessions short. Stay safe and have fun training.

  • Introducing Your Dog to the Water This Spring: Kennel Korner

    Well guys and girls it’s getting to be that time of year again (even though it is a month early) where it’s time to get your dog back into the water. A couple things to remember, the first and most important is the water is still COLD, just because it is 80 degrees outside doesn’t mean the water is that warm remember the water was solid not too long ago, put a vest on your dog this will keep them a little warmer, hypothermia is as big a deal in dogs as it is in humans the vest will protect the vital organs from the cold. The second thing to remember is that unless you have been training your dog on a daily basis over the winter, (walks around the block don’t count,) this means high energy retrieving, long distant marking, your dog is not in shape to swim for hours. Keep your water training sessions short at first, right around the 15-20 minute mark, and then gradually work up the amount of time that they are in the water. Also just because your dog gets out of the water after your training session and bounces around like they still want to go doesn’t mean they are not tired, just think how your body feels after you work out the first time in 3-4 months, you don’t want your dog to be sore for a week. Remember that owning a gun dog is a 365 day a year job, keeping them in shape for the 3 months of hunting takes a lot of work and dedication.

    Rick Schmitz - C/o Behind the Blinds Labradors Kennel and Outfitter

  • Behind the Blinds Labradors Puppy notes:

    Lab hunting puppies

    FOOD; Always feed your puppy food for at least the first 7-8 month (it has all the vitamins and nutrients that you puppy needs for healthy and rapid growth.

    Feed you puppy 3 times a day for the first 4 months old, 6-12 months feed 2 times a day, After 1 year of age feeding 1 time a day is sufficient, however dividing you dogs portions up for 2 feedings is ok also. Remember to keep good records of how much you feed your dog, in case your vet ever asks you.

    Start with ¾ -1 cup of food with about ½ as much water, gradually increase the food as the puppy grows while gradually getting rid of the water in the food.  Let your puppies appearance be your guide neither to thin nor to fat) Good things to add to food include: canned meat, cottage cheese, cooked egg, or oil or some type of fat in the diet is good for a supple coat and skin.

    A vitamin supplement is very beneficial during the first year of development.

    SHOTS:  Your puppy has received the first series of shots on __________________, these shot protect against D.H.L.P and parvo, also your puppy has received a deworming shot on ___________________, for your info and your vets info the names of the shots were___________________________________________________________________.

    The 2nd set of shots is required at 3-4 weeks from the date above..

    The 3rd set of shots to follow another 3-4 weeks after the 2nd series.  After the 3rd series only an annual revaccination is necessary.

    When taking your puppy to the vet for the 1st time, collect a stool sample so that your vet can check for worms.

    RABIES:  Shots are due around 6 months of age.

    PARASITES: it is good practice to occasionally have your puppies stool checked to keep your puppy free from parasites!!

    NOTES:  Your puppy will miss his/her littermates. So except some crying.  This will pass!  It helps to have a blanket or something to cuddle up in.  Also the pup will think it can chew on anything and everything, so make sure that is has plenty of its own toys to chew on.  Always correct a negative with a positive.  Example; if the pup has something that it is not supposed to tell it “NO” then replaces it with a toy that it is allowed to chew on. Your pup will happily switch with a little praise from you.

    A word about house breaking your new puppy: It seems puppy’s needs to go out every waking hour. This is because of their small holding tank.  Accidents will happen, again correct a negative with a positive. A firm “NO” and a trip to the outdoors, again use a lot of praise when they do their business outside.  Get your puppy outside immediately after a nap, after eating or drinking, this will help you avoid some accidents.

    We highly recommend the use of a crate with your new puppy.  It will help in potty training as the puppy will try to hold it when he/she is in the crate, it also a safe place where the puppy can sleep and be when unsupervised.  The crate is also a useful way to transport your new puppy in a vehicle.

    If for some reason you cannot keep your puppy, please notify us, we would like to know where our puppies end up.  Plus we might be able to help you place it in a good home!!

    We like to hear how the pups are doing from time to time.  So please drop us a line every once and a while.  If you ever have any questions, let us know, we will probably be able to help you out.  And most important:   ENJOY YOUR NEW FRIEND!!!!!!

    TOY SUGGESTIONS: Rawhide chews, rawhide bones, tennis balls and hard rubber balls.  (Avoid stuffed animals.)

    NAILS:  Keep them trimmed. Long nails look unsightly and they can be painful to your dog.

    BREEDING: In case you may be thinking about using your dog for breeding at some time in the future.  Consider some things: your dog should be 2 years old or older, since this is the time that evidence of hip dysplasia can be verified by the O.F.A.  AN x-ray of your dog’s hips should be taken by your vet then sent to the O.F.A to be evaluated.

    Other hereditary factors to consider are the eyes, temperament, EIC, elbows, and etc. The dog should have a brucellosis test to be sure it will not pass nor contract a disease through breeding.

    Raising a litter of puppies properly takes considerable knowledge, time, work, proper equipment.  Unless you have something beneficial to offer, placing your puppies in a suitable home can be a problem.  Also are you prepared to replace a dog if some hereditary or defiant problem arises from your breeding?  Even the most experienced breeders encounter problems along the way.  Dedication to bettering the breed is a MUST!!

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